GIANT DETOUR UK
Scotland has a way of pulling you in. Our first visit - wild camping in a small camper amidst the stunning scenery of Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park - was magical in every sense and left me wanting more.
Years later, we returned with the family to explore the newly opened North Coast 500. That journey took us through some of the most breathtaking places I’ve ever seen: the rugged Cairngorms, the dramatic landscapes of Glencoe and Glen Etive, the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct, and finally, Rosslyn Chapel near Edinburgh. Each mile fueled my desire for more adventure. And when I saw a cyclist braving fierce rainstorms on the Isle of Skye, I knew I’d be back - but this time, it would be different.
By early 2018, feeling the need to move more and escape the routine, I stumbled into the world of bicycle touring. The idea of travelling at a slower pace, fully immersed in the elements and the journey itself, was too good to resist.
On July 1st, 2018, I set out on my first long-distance ride - a plan that had grown from a simple idea into a 4,000 km adventure. Equipped with my trusty black Giant Talon 27.5” mountain bike - until then only used for local trips - I rode through England’s rolling landscapes and Scotland’s dramatic terrain, all the way to Durness and back. That trip wasn’t just a ride but the beginning of something bigger. Scotland had shown me what was possible, and there was no turning back.
The Pennine Way Adventure
Originally, the plan was to take my bike on a plane, fly to Edinburgh, and just explore the Scottish Highlands. However, this idea coincided with my discovery of long-distance cycling adventures and a friend's participation in the Montane Spine Race, one of the world’s toughest endurance races. This race traverses the iconic Pennines, a mountain range in Northern England known as the backbone of the country. Watching the online footage of the race, led to a new plan taking shape. I decided to embark on a cycling journey to the Scottish North coast, starting from my home and following the breathtaking route of the Pennine Way.
On July 1st, 2018, I set out on my Giant Detour UK adventure, commencing with a ride from home to Hook of Holland (Rotterdam), where I would board the overnight Stena Line ferry to Harwich. After a restful night's sleep, the ferry docked at Harwich International Port, and while waiting for trucks to disembark, fellow cyclists and I enjoyed breakfast before disembarking ourselves.
From Harwich, my journey headed northwest, taking me through Cambridge to Derby, the official starting point of the Pennine Cycle Way (NCN 68). After several nights of camping, I stayed in the Aston Court Hotel in Derby, where the staff kindly offered to store my bike in their function room. Hotel guests gathered in the hotel bar to witness the English team being defeated by Croatia in the World Cup semi-finals.
Peak District, Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines
The Pennines fulfilled their promise, as I cycled through the Peak District National Park, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North Pennines. My pace was slow, attributed partly to my status as a novice adventure cyclist grappling with elevation and bike weight, and largely due to the captivating beauty of the UK landscape. Frequent stops to capture pictures and admire the views became a ritual. While camping was convenient during the exceptionally hot summer, I also discovered England's excellent youth hostels (YHA), which added to the experience by connecting me with fellow travellers.
Entering Scotland
Passing by Hadrian's Wall, remnants of ancient Roman defences, and traversing Northumberland National Park's wild terrain. I detoured to Town Yetholm. Here, at The Border Hotel, marking the end of an epic route, I placed my hand against the wall - just like is done by the finishers of the Spine Race. My track briefly led back into England as I cycled to Berwick-upon-Tweed.
The road to Edinburgh was ahead, where my family awaited after three weeks of cycling. Despite the slower pace, I arrived well before them and spent more time in Edinburgh than anticipated. Taking advantage of this, I extended my ride to Glasgow before returning to the capital of Scotland via train. Reuniting with my family offered a refreshing break, and together, we explored Lothian and Northumberland in a campervan for a week. Though saddened by their departure, I was excited to venture into the Scottish Highlands.
Scottish Highlands
My pedals took me through Stirling and the stunning route around Loch Lomond as I made my way towards Glencoe, a highlight of my journey. Cycling through this breathtaking part of Scotland, which I had previously experienced only by car, was indescribably exhilarating. After six weeks on the road, I reached Gairloch Sands, having passed Fort William, Invergarry, Ratagan (near Eilean Donan Castle), and Torridon along the Scottish West coast.
Rain became a daily companion, but my rain gear and panniers held up impressively. However, the real challenge in this region was the relentless midges, tiny creatures that attacked upon stopping. I battled these pests by continuing to pedal. The Gairloch hostel offered protection and splendid views over the Atlantic, making it an ideal place to pause for an extra day and appreciate the scenery.
After a 2,000-kilometer journey from the Netherlands, I reached Durness, the highest point of my adventure, on the North Coast of Scotland. From there, I embarked on my journey back home. Revisiting Stirling, where I began, after eight weeks on the road, felt like a culmination of the mountains becoming less daunting and more familiar. The routine of donning my cycling gear, attaching my panniers, and planning routes became second nature.
End of an Epic Adventure
People often asked if I felt lonely during my solo long-distance cycling journey, but the camaraderie with fellow cyclists, engaging conversations, and stunning vistas dispelled any sense of solitude. Pedalling through the NCN 74, passing Lockerbie, marked my exit from Scotland into Cumbria, England. This leg of the journey led me through the Lake District, Manchester, Stoke-on-Trent, and Birmingham, before I ventured into the picturesque Cotswolds and finally reached London.
A few days in London, and catching up with a friend from the Netherlands over dinner, preceded the last leg of my adventure. The final stop awaited at Harwich International Port, marking the official conclusion of my epic UK journey. Reflecting on the incredible scenery, the challenges overcome, and the experiences gained, I felt a deep sense of accomplishment and fulfilment. The journey that started with uncertainty had turned into an unforgettable experience of a lifetime.
